Warning: creepy morbidity ahead
So I arrived in Jakarta just in time to settle in, plug away at my work, and get ready to get lulled into sleep listening to the dulcet intonations of the iman calling the faithful to prayer from the nearby mosque. Having gone through, count 'em, four hotel rooms – yes, I am that annoying squeaky wheel, but my previous three tries either lacked high speed internet or a working power – I was thrilled when the front desk threw up their hands and put me in a luxo-suite with delectable fluffy robes and slippers (oh how I am a sucker for a hotel robe and slippers). Yet, just after midnight, I awoke from a jet-lagged comatose to the wooden hangers in the armoire next to the bed performing some sort of crazed skeleton dance. In my haze, I wondered if there was some wacky alarm system set up in the closet for the determined snooze-button sleeper and stumbled out to check. Which is about when I felt the room take a decided tilt left, then right. The back again.
My instinctual flight kicked in and I ran, still utterly foggy-headed, into the next room to . . . well, it's a little embarrassing, but I think to inspect my room service tray. Somehow my tired, half-asleep brain pieced together that something very strange was happening and that it was conceivably very bad – ergo, the best verification was to crouch down and eyeball my waterglass sitting on the room service tray. My subconscious has apparently watched Jurassic Park one to many times. But, sure enough, the water sloshed over the side one way, then the other. I don't know what I thought after that, but my body took over and decided to GET THE HELL OUT OF DODGE.
Without my purse, without my passport, clad in a flower-printed nightgown and yellow terry cloth robe, I ran down the hallway for the stairwell. Other bleary-eyed hotel guests followed, though perhaps without my unrestrained gusto. Robe flapping, I started sprinting down the stairs. At about four floors down, it finally dawned on me that the shaking had stopped, that no discernable disaster sounds were forthcoming. I paused in my flight. Nothing. I met eyes with another hotel guest, a Japanese business man in his undershirt and half-buttoned pants, and I pulled my robe tight with a post-lapsarian cinch. A hotel employee came in and informed us there had been an earthquake but that it was safe to return to our rooms. It's hard to explain the weird sense of relief tinged with let-down after that announcement; I mean, halleluiah and thank god and all that, but my body was ready man, flight or fight, adrenaline up to my eyeballs. Instead, I turned back to sort of sheepishly shuffle back up the stairs to my (wide open) hotel room. I crawled back to bed and lay there thinking.
This was the second time in under a month where I had found myself hurling myself down stairs because of a perceived threat. I work above Grand Central Terminal in New York and a few weeks ago, our building evacuated because of what turned out to be a steam pipe explosion. Before we knew, though, before Bloomberg announced the incident was not terrorist related, no one knew what to think except the worst. I was in my office with a summer associate when a horrible earthshaking rumble started up. I looked out the window trying to figure out what was happening. "I think we need to get out of here," she said. I walked out to the hallway and said something stupidly flip like "what's going on here, the end of days or what?" Then, a paralegal ran down the hall shouting that smoke was billowing out of the building next door. You know what we thought. The entire building of 50+ floors evacuated, some dared the elevator, most cruised down the stairs. Once in the mezzanine, I gripped onto the summer's hand and she and I started walking towards Central Park.
It's strange; in the flight moment, everyone is moving, is on, is scared. But no one loses their shit. You still talk in a normal voice, saying things like "well, this is pretty crazy, huh?" and nodding that the best plan is keep walking north. There is this sort of fake coolness, an unfelt nonchalance because what else are you going to do? I called DK once I was outside walking up Park, and it was the first time my voice shook.
Luckily in both cases I quickly found out that everything was under control. A steampipe. A strong earthquake far underground (though, still, a 7.6 on the ol' scale). I made jokes the next day about my wild-eyed descent with my Indonesian clients. I mentioned it to my parents, I wrote back to concerned friends, I called off my firm's travel office watchdogs (who, damn, are on top of things in eerily reassuring way. Not an hour later after the quake struck and they called my hotel room to ask me if I wanted on the next flight out). I haven't thought much about it except as "one of those crazy stories."
I'm in Bali this weekend, which is absurdly delicious. I've done some work, but mainly I have indulged by finishing two books, sitting on the beach and getting a ridiculously long spa treatment package thingie that included having scented oil poured on my forehead for thirty minutes. But I keep finding myself dwelling on the slightly morbid. My plane to Bali went through a patch of turbulence and I sort of complacently thought, "Well, at least DK knows I love him." Uh, what? Then today, as the masseuse rubbed me with various oils as I lay on a slab with my eyes closed, all I could think about was how loving ancient funeral rituals must have been, to perform this last tender anointment; and how sad that we were so far removed from that ritualistic touch. While please lock me up if I ever go to pull out a bottle of my fanciest olive oil at the news of loved one's passing, I have to admit, at that moment, it just seemed so desperately sad to think of some cold and brightly lit room, with tubes and fluids.
Jesus Christ, I have just succeeded in totally creeping myself out. Perhaps the earthquake has affected more than I thought? You think? Sheesh. Off to get a restorative glass of wine, stat.